The down-south chic of Montpellier, France
Why Montpellier?
Languedoc’s capital is one of France’s most dynamic cities – helped by an unusually high number of students studying at one of the country’s oldest universities. At the same time, the abundance of Mediterranean sunshine brings a mellow air that invites slow ambles through the old town’s pedestrianised medieval lanes. When things really heat up, the beach is only about 20 kilometres away.
Its historic centre is an attractive mishmash of 18th-century mansions and medieval houses, book-ended by handsomely landscaped green spaces, including France’s oldest botanical garden. Tiny squares and alleys teem with cafes and bars; the convivial atmosphere is infectious on warm evenings when people fill the streets.
Mellow it may be, but Montpellier is always on the move. Its cultural life is one of the richest in southern France, with summertime music and dance festivals. Behind its severe facade, Musée Fabre (museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com) houses one of France’s biggest art collections outside of Paris. The city itself is constantly expanding, with new districts such as Port Marianne, which boasts shiny buildings that run alongside the River Lez.
A comfortable bed
Baudon de Mauny (www.baudondemauny.com) has eight elegant and quietly refined rooms in an 18th-century family mansion in the heart of the old town. Splash out on one of the XXL rooms, which makes you feel as if you’re in your own private ballroom. Double rooms cost from €165 (Dh676), room only.
Another family home, but from a more recent era, Les 4 Etoiles (www.les4etoiles.com), near the 18th-century aqueduct Les Arceaux, is a friendly B&B with plenty of original 1930s features and an adorable roof terrace. Doubles cost from €94 (Dh385), including breakfast.
Formerly the Holiday Inn, Hôtel Oceania le Métropole (www.oceaniahotels.com) is in a handy location near the train station and – rare for Montpellier hotels – has an outdoor pool. Doubles cost from €101 (Dh407), room only.
Find your feet
The old town, called the Ecusson, is easy to explore on foot, and there’s an efficient tram system for exploring further afield. Start in the Place de la Comédie, a grand oblong square in which an ornate 18th-century opera house sits regally among the row of lively cafes. At the other end – just before the expansive gardens of the Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle – is the tourist office (www.ot-montpellier.fr). It stands before some examples of Montpellier’s more modern face: the Polygone shopping mall and Antigone, a controversial 1980s experiment in grandiose modern architecture.
Behind the Place de la Comédie is the tangle of streets and alleys that makes up the old town. At its western end are the Jardin des Plantes botanical garden and the elaborate gardens of the Promenade du Peyrou. Just beyond is Les Arceaux, modelled on the Pont du Gard, which hosts a twice-weekly food market.
Meet the locals
The streets around Saint-Roch church are a hive of bars and restaurants wedged into the narrow lanes, including a cluster of cafes where Rue du Petit Saint-Jean and Rue de la Fontaine meet. Le Saint-Roch is a perennial favourite, as is its neighbour Le Bouchon Saint-Roch.
Book a table
Le Petit Jardin (www.petit-jardin.com) serves innovative dishes in a classy environment that includes a not-so-petit garden. The menu is seasonal, but could include turbot with carrot mousse and tempura capers. Mains cost about €32 (Dh131). Adjoining the restaurant is a more casual bistro with a cheaper menu and its own garden.
The cosy little Le Paresseur (0033 4 6767 1207) around the corner from Le Saint-Roch bases its menu on what it gets from the market. The seasonally changing menu will usually include a risotto and a fish of the day. Mains cost about €16 (Dh66).
Shopper’s paradise
Check out the lanes around Saint-Roch for tiny boutiques selling handmade clothing and accessories. Matière d’Art at 5 Rue de la Fontaine (www.n-b-collection.com) has an eclectic mix of handcrafted jewellery, ceramics and women’s clothes. Vert Anis at No 10 has fun women’s creations, plus a range of children’s clothing. You’ll find upmarket boutiques along Rue Foch on the way to the Promenade du Peyrou.
What to avoid
Taking a car into the centre. There’s nowhere to park and you certainly won’t be needing one. The only alternative is to leave it in a costly car park.
Don’t miss
Spend an afternoon on the beach. Take tramway L3 to its final stop – 3km from Carnon-Plage. If you’re lucky, you might spot pink flamingos perching in the water as you pass the Étang de Pérols and the Étang de l’Or.
Why Montpellier?
Languedoc’s capital is one of France’s most dynamic cities – helped by an unusually high number of students studying at one of the country’s oldest universities. At the same time, the abundance of Mediterranean sunshine brings a mellow air that invites slow ambles through the old town’s pedestrianised medieval lanes. When things really heat up, the beach is only about 20 kilometres away.
Its historic centre is an attractive mishmash of 18th-century mansions and medieval houses, book-ended by handsomely landscaped green spaces, including France’s oldest botanical garden. Tiny squares and alleys teem with cafes and bars; the convivial atmosphere is infectious on warm evenings when people fill the streets.
Mellow it may be, but Montpellier is always on the move. Its cultural life is one of the richest in southern France, with summertime music and dance festivals. Behind its severe facade, Musée Fabre (museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com) houses one of France’s biggest art collections outside of Paris. The city itself is constantly expanding, with new districts such as Port Marianne, which boasts shiny buildings that run alongside the River Lez.
A comfortable bed
Baudon de Mauny (www.baudondemauny.com) has eight elegant and quietly refined rooms in an 18th-century family mansion in the heart of the old town. Splash out on one of the XXL rooms, which makes you feel as if you’re in your own private ballroom. Double rooms cost from €165 (Dh676), room only.
Another family home, but from a more recent era, Les 4 Etoiles (www.les4etoiles.com), near the 18th-century aqueduct Les Arceaux, is a friendly B&B with plenty of original 1930s features and an adorable roof terrace. Doubles cost from €94 (Dh385), including breakfast.
Formerly the Holiday Inn, Hôtel Oceania le Métropole (www.oceaniahotels.com) is in a handy location near the train station and – rare for Montpellier hotels – has an outdoor pool. Doubles cost from €101 (Dh407), room only.
Find your feet
The old town, called the Ecusson, is easy to explore on foot, and there’s an efficient tram system for exploring further afield. Start in the Place de la Comédie, a grand oblong square in which an ornate 18th-century opera house sits regally among the row of lively cafes. At the other end – just before the expansive gardens of the Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle – is the tourist office (www.ot-montpellier.fr). It stands before some examples of Montpellier’s more modern face: the Polygone shopping mall and Antigone, a controversial 1980s experiment in grandiose modern architecture.
Behind the Place de la Comédie is the tangle of streets and alleys that makes up the old town. At its western end are the Jardin des Plantes botanical garden and the elaborate gardens of the Promenade du Peyrou. Just beyond is Les Arceaux, modelled on the Pont du Gard, which hosts a twice-weekly food market.
Meet the locals
The streets around Saint-Roch church are a hive of bars and restaurants wedged into the narrow lanes, including a cluster of cafes where Rue du Petit Saint-Jean and Rue de la Fontaine meet. Le Saint-Roch is a perennial favourite, as is its neighbour Le Bouchon Saint-Roch.
Book a table
Le Petit Jardin (www.petit-jardin.com) serves innovative dishes in a classy environment that includes a not-so-petit garden. The menu is seasonal, but could include turbot with carrot mousse and tempura capers. Mains cost about €32 (Dh131). Adjoining the restaurant is a more casual bistro with a cheaper menu and its own garden.
The cosy little Le Paresseur (0033 4 6767 1207) around the corner from Le Saint-Roch bases its menu on what it gets from the market. The seasonally changing menu will usually include a risotto and a fish of the day. Mains cost about €16 (Dh66).
Shopper’s paradise
Check out the lanes around Saint-Roch for tiny boutiques selling handmade clothing and accessories. Matière d’Art at 5 Rue de la Fontaine (www.n-b-collection.com) has an eclectic mix of handcrafted jewellery, ceramics and women’s clothes. Vert Anis at No 10 has fun women’s creations, plus a range of children’s clothing. You’ll find upmarket boutiques along Rue Foch on the way to the Promenade du Peyrou.
What to avoid
Taking a car into the centre. There’s nowhere to park and you certainly won’t be needing one. The only alternative is to leave it in a costly car park.
Don’t miss
Spend an afternoon on the beach. Take tramway L3 to its final stop – 3km from Carnon-Plage. If you’re lucky, you might spot pink flamingos perching in the water as you pass the Étang de Pérols and the Étang de l’Or.
